faraway

Hong Kong is a spectacular, seemly singular concrete construction that crowds around its harbour and emerges out of the slopes of the island’s moody mountains. It seemed clear to me that Hong Kong was obviously Ridely Scott’s inspiration for the futuristic LA in Blade Runner. Arriving at night at Hong Kong’s colossal airport swarming with passengers, we caught a shuttle bus to the city. The trip from Lantau Island (where the airport is located) through Kowloon and over to Hong Kong lsland is done over enormous bridges, through mountain and a harbour tunnel. Galuh kept remarking on how often she would spot the word "Cheung" written on buildings, billboards and tunnels. Yes, we have a common name. We were all wide-eyed on our approach to Hong Kong Island as its dramatic skyline and astonishing architecture came into view. The city is like a immense crown bejeweled with multicoloured neon lights.

My favorite days during our week in Hong Kong were probably the first and the last. Both involved a ferry crossing. On the first day, a Sunday, we ventured out of our hotel onto the bustling streets of Hong Kong. After making our way through some narrow and winding streets and descending some stairs (Hong Kong loses to Singapore in terms of public accessibility) we found the Tram line. It was crowded ride but Zach was fascinated as we climbed to the top deck and watched busy Hennesy Street roll by. We descended at a public square near the Star Ferry dock. The area was filled with Filipino women, domestic workers gather here on they’re one day off. They sat on the sides of the sidewalk having picnic of homemade food eaten from plastic containers (Tupperware) in small and animated groups. Their chatter was a buzz in the underground walkway (in Hong Kong called a “subway” not to be confused with the underground mass transit system, the MTR) that lead to the Star Ferry dock. At the end some activists displayed banner and handed out pamphlets in Tegalog.

We caught the tour Star Ferry which sails around the harbour. Nice views but the day was cloudy and grey casting an unpleasant light on Hong Kong’s wall of buildings. We got off on the Kowloon side and had lunch at a Starbucks. We made the mistake of first trying to get Chinese food for lunch on a Sunday. I should have known, given the long Sunday waits my family faced in Toronto for most of my childhood. After trying our fourth restaurant, we gave up and settled for sandwiches at Starbucks.

It turns out, the public viewing space on the Kowloon side is the Indonesian domestic workers’ Sunday hangout spot. After lunch as we strolled back over to the ferry, Galuh could catch phrases of Javanese spoken by the similar small picnicking groups of young women. We caught the ferry back across to Hong Kong and from there took the MTR back to the Hotel. We had assumed that there was a station right under the hotel because I spotted this staircase labeled “subway”. Being from Toronto, I assumed this was the MTR. When we got off at the Causeway bay station, we followed the signs to the Cosmopolitan Hotel, walking what seemed like a kilometer through tunnels underground. The people of Hong Kong walk far more than Jakartans because of all these underground tunnels. Finally we emerged in Times Square and were told that the Hotel was still another 15 minutes walk outside. However we could catch a taxi on Russel street. Emerging onto Russel Street, I got my first impression of Hong Kong’s density. A solid mass of people were moving slowly but inexorably on Russel Street. We tried to find a cab but there was an considerable queue. Later we would discover there is a shuttle to the hotel that picks-up once every hour on Sharp Street. But unaware of that we decided to walk back to the hotel. We arrived sweaty and exhausted but I felt a sense of accomplishment in having successfully navigated this intimidatingly complex and vast city. For Zach he had ridden the Tram (on the top deck no less), the Star Ferry and the MRT.

Our kids are tough. Zach complained a lot but I was impressed how much he walked in the Hong Kong’s summer heat. Although, the moment Jacob was lifted from the stroller, Zach was quick to take his place. Jake survived long hot days.

Our last day, for me, was our best. Galuh suggested we explore Lamma Island which is south of Lantau. We took a ferry from Central. You can pay with the Octopus transit cards. That was cool and futuristic. The small island is a quieter, earthier place. No cars are allowed on the island although they have these noisy four wheeled motorized carts which they call We-We trucks, maybe because they look like little trucks. Lots of people use bikes as we could see from the mass of bike parked along the ferry pier. It was raining lightly as we came off the ferry which added to the mystique of the place. I love rain and the tone it brings to any environment.

All the roads are narrow and aside from the We-we trucks and bikes are quiet and lined with cozy-looking bars and seafood restaurants. Here and there are little shops selling trinkets and souvenirs. We had lunch at a leftly little restaurant called the Bookworm Café, its walls covered with used books and magazine from do-gooding NGOs (Oxfam, Greenpeace and Amnesty all well represented). After a light lunch we walked to the beach. Another long, hot walk and Zach kept peppering me with “Dad, when will we get there?”. Thankfully the entire path is covered by asphalt and Jake slept all the way in his stroller. He looks like a little Buddha when he sleeps there. Finally we reached the small beach. It was clean and there were a few people there but it was mostly quiet. I was impressed that there were lifeguards here, something mostly absent on Indonesian beaches. While Galuh and Jacob rested at a park bench, Zach and I ventured into the surf. The waves are perfect for a four-year old. Zach loves water. He loves to play in the waves. He was sad to leave.

We had dinner at another little restaurant. The manager was very helpful and eaeger to please us. He gave us great advice on our order. Everybody was hungry, even Jacob. The seafood was great and I tried a new beer, Blue Lady. We had a delicate steamed fish, clams and calamari (almost entirely devoured by Zach). Jacob liked the fish. He got a fishcheek. Satisfied, we headed back to the ferry pier, took in a clouded sunset and sailed back to Hong Kong.

Jerome

PS : For the pictures of our trip in Hongkong, please open "our Yahoo Photo Albums"